Vintage pattern sewing: McCalls 2123, the underpants

It isn't obvious from the pattern front, but McCalls 2123 does include an underpants pattern, which I think is nice. Somehow I always want my dolls to be wearing underpants, and I'm always on the look-out for a perfect pattern.

This one wants you to sew elastic around the waist, but I don't like that method for fashion dolls. For one thing, it's very difficult to slide them up the legs--especially bendable legs--and over the hips. I put them on Midge because her rigid legs are smooth and make dressing her a little easier.

But look how they gap around the waist, even with the elastic. And I even used clear elastic, which is much stretchier and more resilient than braid elastic.

Pos'n Tammy is wearing a pair with my modifications. Really, only one modification.

In this picture, you can see how the pattern piece is cut--how there's an allowance along the top to press under and a seam up the back. McCalls wants you to sew elastic on top of that turned-under allowance, then sew up the back seam, catching the ends of the elastic in it.

But you get a much nicer fit if you sew the back seam only partially--leave 1/2 or 3/4 inch open to the waist, then sew on a dainty little snap at the center back.

The waist will be too loose. So take them off the doll and put them back on her inside out. (The snap will still work.)

Run a gathering stitch around the waist.  I used a doubled thread, plus ran it through the waxer for extra strength.

Tammy doesn't have her underpants on inside out in this picture--but the stitching will be easier to start and end if you do reverse them.

This ends up with a rather customized fit for a particular doll. (Hah! Tailored underpants!) I think using elastic thread for the gathering thread would provide a little more flexibility to fit different dolls. But really, these are so quick to make, it isn't much trouble to make each girl her own.

This is the kind of underpants I like best for dolls, though here it appears as a bikini bottom. I worked out the pattern using methods learned from some Gene Marshall doll clothing.

I like them underpants to fit lower, around the hips, so that they don't add bulk to the waist. Also, I like them to close with a snap, with no elastic or even gathering. It creates a sleek fit that will look better under her outfits.

I like to line them, too, so that I don't have to topstitch around the leg holes or the waist--just looks more finished that way. When I started lining underpants, I had to redraft the pattern to allow for less stretch in the doubled fabric. I should try experimenting with knit lining sometime; maybe that will work better.

The bikini top is actually from an old commercial Barbie doll pattern! It didn't even need many adjustments. This doll is several inches taller than Barbie, but she's petite around the shoulders and bust.